3.1 Phillip Lim Fall 2021 Ready-to-Wear Collection

“I sit here feeling somewhat helpless, invisible, and semi-defeated because our Asian stories are not being reported in mainstream media…. It feels as if we do not really matter or even exist,” he said, and asked his “fellow Americans, fellow human beings…will you stand with me to stop Asian hate?”

Lim cited a shocking statistic about the 1,900% rise in those hate crimes and showed pictures of his immigrant childhood, including one of his mother in their first house in the States with her sewing machine, “the machine that fed us all.”

Lim said he’s managing through the pandemic by “staying nimble and smart” and “not treating anything in a monolithic way.” Fashion-wise, that translated to a well-rounded collection touching on the comfort and utility conversations we’ve been having since the lockdowns began and the tailoring we might return to as we transition back to commuting and office-life, while leaving room for playful pieces, too.

He’s always been a dab hand at tailoring, able to synthesize trends and make silhouettes that are lasting. This season, he gave suits in structured twill a streamlined ’70s vibe, while a coat and pleated pants in menswear check wool had roomier proportions. Sportier outerwear in a tech-y faille was made special with embroideries of little rolls of the fabric. Lim’s knit dresses came in a fitted rib and a polo neck style with a flaring hem.

He accessorized a lot of the looks with a chunky dickie, an unlikely old-fashioned garment that has been given new life in Zoom-time. He also had fun with the negative space sweaters and leggings that enlivened the sparer pieces, including a dolman sleeve jacket and split seam A-line skirt in a super-plush wide-wale corduroy that could convince a girl to say “see ya” to her lockdown track suit for good.