Queen of Hearts as in the fictional monarch from “Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland”meets Eighties excess? So declared the press notes for Elie Saab’s latest pre-fall lineup, which demonstrated the label’s continued emphasis on daywear and cocktail looks. The references came through, thankfully, with subtlety: Heart motifs were worked into a few pieces in the collection via sweetheart necklines and golden heart charms, the latter adding texture to a Victorian-style sheer lace blouse. Exaggerated power shoulders nodded to the decade on a few of the collection’s embellished jackets and dresses; ditto: a black leather miniskirt decorated with heart-shaped velvet embroidery. Saab’s take on street included an oversize velvet hoodie decorated with crystal embroidery and a nylon parka accented with lush fox fur.
This being Elie Saab, there were plenty of glamorous evening gowns on tap. One highlight was a transparent lace high-neck number covered in 3-D floral leather appliqués Victorian prim but not all the way proper. For party girls, Saab’s decadent, festive dresses covered in allover confetti beads and sequins should fit the bill.