Ermanno Scervino RTW Spring 2022

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With lockdown out of the way — for now — who doesn’t need a vitamin shot of pink, Emerald City green, or even purple feathers?

No one could blame Ermanno Scervino for packing his collection with punchy colors — and details — that certainly brightened this gray Saturday with a show in a breezy, cobbled courtyard not far from the Duomo.

Guests sat on old-fashioned chairs with thick cushions and watched the ostrich feathers float by — minty green tufts on a short slip dress; purple ones on a little cocktail number, and white tendrils sprouting from a languid sweater.

Sequins were out and proud, too — shimmering green on the surface of a shirtdress, or winking from a lineup of long black dresses, skirts, and halter tops.

All that whimsy was balanced by an unusual amount of sporty — borderline street — attire, including anoraks in bright pink or green, slim cargo pants that gathered just below the knee, and a suit made from shearling shorts and a little matching jacket.

It didn’t hang together: The craftsmanship was beautiful — as always — but it’s difficult to imagine who would turn to Scervino (or pay his prices) for a pair of cargo pants, a bright anorak, or a glittery bikini or halter top.

Scervino is a tailoring master and his silhouettes are usually so strong, shapely, feminine, and flattering. This season was the exception. It’s clear he’s trying to appeal to a younger customer — and to dial down the formality of past collections — but that’s just not him.

His ladies need stricter lines, more sophisticated shapes — and the odd sprinkle of sequin — to brighten their days.