Pre-Spring Ulla Johnson Resort 2022 Collection Is Intense And Dark

Ulla Johnson’s pre-spring collection was shot at East Hampton’s LongHouse Reserve, a sculpture garden founded by the textile designer and collector Jack Lenor Larsen.

Model Saskia de Brauw climbs up its trees and poses next to a geodesic dome by Buckminster Fuller that shares space on the 16-acre property with giant chess set by Yoko Ono. It’s an idyllic scene—a reminder of the restorative power of nature and the equally therapeutic benefits of a new dress.

Johnson knows her way around a pretty frock. Last month, Taylor Tomasi Hill, the creative and fashion director of A.I.-enabled shopping app The Yes, posted a photo of herself in a black ruffled number from Johnson’s spring collection to Instagram Stories, and more than a thousand of her followers engaged with it.

“Ulla does great juxtaposition: structured pieces with flowing details; casual fabrics are done in a tailored way. They’re perfect for dressing up or down, which is why I think everyone on The Yes responded so well.

Dress sales have more than doubled in the past month, with demand for halter necklines specifically skyrocketing sevenfold. I think it’s a sign that everyone is excited to get out, but they’re easing into it and not entirely ready to ditch comfort.”

The designer took a trip to the Southwest earlier this year. “People have always said it’s a landscape made for me,” she said at a showroom visit, and it does seem to agree with her.

Tapping into the desert palette, she made copious use of cactus flowers, and stripes, and zoomorphic ikat patterns. But the references don’t look literal, and the clothes aren’t precious. Ensuring their relatability, Johnson road tests them all herself; her own Instagram account is a sort of logbook of upcoming releases.

The news for pre-spring is a much-expanded swim line incorporating many of the same prints as the collection, making for easy mix-and-matching with the ready-to-wear.

The ruched keyhole-cutout maillot she paired with a full cotton-poplin skirt is sure to be a hot seller. Johnson is also building out her accessories, and the highlight here is a made-in-Italy vacchetta leather stacked-heel boot.

COLLECTION

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