Acne Studios RTW Spring 2022

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The gloves were off — and so was every other bit of clothing — in this lingerie-inspired collection that had more flashes of the corset, garter belt, and stocking than a 1950s pinup calendar.

Last season, Jonny Johansson focused on well-being, swaddling the body in fuzzy knits, dressing-gown coats, and draped dresses inspired by cozy home interiors. But it’s spring now, so he’s peeling off the layers, and looking at lingerie in a new light.

Johansson said he’s been thinking about “self-identity” and people’s “obsession with performance, presenting themselves in a fashionable way — and revealing themselves,” particularly on social media.

“It’s a way of self-conceptualizing, of communicating to the world that you’re ‘in the mix,’” he said. Hence focus on corsetry, crochet — and traditional craft. Johansson said he worked with couture corset makers, while all of the crochet was done by hand.

“It’s an old craft, and I’m respecting that — but I tried to make it cool, and provocative.” He certainly succeeded on that front, sending out this curve-hugging collection with platform sandals as big as cinderblocks.

The simplest looks were the best: a dark coat with lace-up detail at the back and on the cuffs; an ethereal white dress anchored by a matching boned corset, and fine — or chunky — crochet tops, bodysuits, and even handbags. Short, knitted kilt-like skirts were sweet, as were all those skinny cardigans with mile-long sleeves.